An Invitation To Beaulieu
written by Emily Harris
2020 has, so far, been a scorching cruising adventure doing our best to avoid busy harbours and beaches. Then came an invitation, from a friend James Evans, to attend the Beaulieu River Wooden Boat Association 'get-together' at Buckler's Hard.
Organised by wooden boat owners Iain Rawlinson together with James Evans and with support from the Beaulieu Estate, the event seemed surprisingly uncomplicated. A couple of emails came in, aside from that it was a simple 'see you there'.
Mark Whiteley, who owns ZARIK a Eugène Cornu-designed ketch launched in 1966, and I understood we could raft up on the pier or, use a swinging mooring on the river for Friday night and generally 'gather on Saturday'.
With no real vision of what to expect, apart from hopefully seeing both James Evans and the Aisher family (owners of gaff-cutter THALIA) who I've become very fond of over the years, Mark and I set off on Friday late afternoon. Taking the flood from the mouth of the Lymington River towards the Beaulieu River entrance. While underway, I thought, surely this wouldn't be a big gathering of wooden boats? A question I briefly explored on the phone with Dan Houston, former editor of Classic Boat magazine, but that was cut short by the Solent’s fast-paced east-bound tide. We were arriving. Mark navigated us over the bar, we rounded ZARIK up into the wind, I furled the genoa, and we steamed up the Beaulieu River.
With Buckler's Hard pier in range, I could see two wooden boats with rigs leaning slightly to the land-side, towards The Master Builder's. But, I think that was just a Trompe-l'œil or, perhaps, a subconscious craving to visit this legendary pub. Rumour had it we would have a pint or even supper there that evening...a novel event in these times.
Two people appeared on what was SAUNTERER's deck, tidying sails and lines. We rafted up alongside her, slightly disturbing reflections of the tree-lined riverbank in the pool that exists opposite Buckler's Hard. The pier was now three-yachts deep. CROIX DES GARDES on the inside, SAUNTERER sandwiched with ZARIK now on the outside. Iain Rawlinson, SAUNTERER's current custodian, and Cassie Strang were instantly warm and accommodating.
Photo © Emily Harris. ZARIK, the French-built Eugène Cornu designed ketch from 1966, sandwiches SAUNTERER, the famous 1900 Charles Sibbick once owned by Captain Oates, with CROIX DES GARDES on the inside, another French-built postwar yacht design, drawn this time by Herni Dervin, launched in 1947.
In this small wooden boat world, I'm sure we're far less than within six-degrees of separation, but you wouldn't think a dog could be the connection! "CRACKER", Mark's Fox Red Labrador, was occupying the aft deck, admiring the wooden boat raft-up. Meanwhile, Cassie onboard SAUNTERER had worked out, within an hour, her dog (that she'd wisely left at home) was a relation of "CRACKER's". Aside from that slightly eccentric dog-chat (which we thought yachties didn’t do, Mark and I felt privileged to have met such lovely people and to be in such proximity to the yacht, famously once owned by Captain Oates.
Click to view photos © Emily Harris
Then a gallant-looking Silvers idled outside of ZARIK before going alongside the visitors' pontoon, adjacent to the pier. I watched as an incredibly agile but elderly man moved around the foredeck, attaching fenders, preparing lines. At the helm was Michael Briggs, who is also the owner of MIKADO, not present at this event. His newly-restored KINGFISHER gleamed in the last of the sun, looking stunning– credit to the boat builders at Stirling & Son. So that was four of us, later, with CERVEZA another Silvers, making five.
The pub didn't want to accommodate non-residents. So, we reverted to what we've all become accustomed to in recent months, making the best of what we've got with the people closest to you. After a brief hello with the Aisher's, on Kristi Aisher's CERVEZA and a good-night to SAUNTERER, light had faded.
A few things, quite haunting, came over me on that Friday's very still night. We were about to sleep – lying right where ships that fought in the Battle of Trafalgar were built and launched. And, in 1966, Francis Chichester had chosen this spot to depart for his solo-circumnavigation, and lastly, to add to the antiquity, SAUNTERER may have a ghost; Captain Oates' spirit might linger.... I thought.
Lord Briggs and his godfather, cruising up to Buckler’s Hard – so sweet. Such an able man!
On Saturday morning, the two Silver's accompanied each other upriver, with the rest of us drawing too much to follow. After our breakfast, life started to spring into action in Buckler's Hard, I walked up to the Master Builder's chapel before it was too busy with tourists. At 1100 all five boats slipped their lines, and collectively, we made our way towards the river entrance to attempt a parade of sail. All conversing on channel 61 (we thought this was wise), but quickly resorting to a Whatsapp group.
Click to view photos © Emily Harris
Seating only 40 souls, this sweet little chapel is a delight to visit. St Mary’s is next door to the well-cherished Master Builder’s pub, also a great place to spend time sipping local ales.
We ditched Channel 61 and conversed on channel Whatsapp!
As we left the upper reaches, approaching Beaulieu River Sailing Club, a fresh breeze blew from the SW out in the Solent. For Mark and I that meant discussing what sails to set, to keep ZARIK in her groove and limiting her heeling angle. It also meant settling the ship's dog into a comfortable position. We steamed down to the entrance, on the way sighting TARIFA and NIGHTFALL bobbing up and down on their moorings.
Great, I thought, some purists were here. I say, purists, TARIFA's owned Mark Hickman is as close as they come, and his friend Martyn Mackrill, is the talented artist, and you can see from his work that there's salt running through his veins too. Both yachts are fine examples of classic yacht restorations and long-term guardianship.
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Watch this video of Mark Hickman talking about his 28ft gaff sloop TARIFA – a story Classic Yacht TV covered back in 2015.
Watch more videos from racing, crusing, restorations and the characters behind these wonderful wooden boats on Classic Yacht TV’s Youtube channel.
James Evans and his girlfriend Daisy McNally were on a local resident's motor yacht, DASHING. There were about 10 or more boats connected to the get-together now; the only disappointment was that they varied so much in sea-kindly ability, sail area size and length. How were we going to get together and sail together? We weren't, I realised, that wasn't the point!
Click to view photos © Emily Harris
Mark and I unfurled the genoa prematurely, and with the mizzen already set ZARIK took off upwind. With hindsight, we should have waited for SAUNTERER. Instead, and unfortunately, the fleet was spread out. "CRACKER" was looking a little wide-eyed and much less enthusiastic than us. We quickly realised, looking at CERVEZA and KINGFISHER, the river had some lee, and we preferred that, especially knowing we would have to start tacking the dog.
As SAUNTERER persevered, and they planned to work their way to windward, to Yarmouth for lunch on a swinging mooring, we bore away. We were heading back to the Beaulieu River entrance to cross the bar before low water.
It was later in the afternoon that this gathering wowed me. CROIX DE GARDES was alongside the pier; this time we made fast on the visitors' pontoon which was, by now, embellished with varnished beauties. CHARM, the West Solent One Design SUVRETTA, TARIFA, NIGHTFALL, dinghies galore including three Axe One Designs, a Keyhaven Scow, the two Silvers – KINGFISHER and CERVEZA.
SAUNTERER and POLLY © James Evans
Having not had a great night's sleep, what with the ghost of Captain Oates and "CRACKER"S early morning shore-side duties, we tried to bury our heads down below for a kip. Plenty of proper wooden boat chat was upon us…
Did we get 40 winks? No. The most frequent comment heard through ZARIK's portholes was "Isn't that well organised, that boat's got a dog to match the colour of the varnish!". "CRACKER" did match the varnish but the weather lit both her and all of the boats' brightwork beautifully, a golden setting sun adorned us all. I think, certainly, James was relieved to have such great weather as he walked down the pontoon in that golden hour, gifting Maison Louis Latour bottles to owners participating.
SAUNTERER came alongside; we took their lines like they had done for us the night before. We had all 'got-together', all 16 boats with owners and their loved-ones enjoying the views from the pontoon. I remember thinking that it was as if by chance, that we had come together, and that the lack of administration and fuss made it so much more fun.
Sunset gathering at Buckler’s Hard © David Aisher
There wasn't a rush to get to a start line; there was no committee. We didn't have to immediately shower and put dresses on to sit through a long prizegiving, this was natural, spontaneous and an up-to-you what you make of it kind of event, even without a pub! A refreshing event, in my eyes.
James Evans reflected on the event afterwards, confirming the gathering's informality and expressing the aim to make it as relaxed of an event as possible. "[It's] for people to gather with other wood boat owners and primarily for local boats on or connected with the Beaulieu River. The aim is to encourage and support wooden boat ownership and mooring on the river. It is very much a gathering for wooden boats of any type, and not a 'classic' event. Not intended to compete in any way with the existing classic/ race weekends".
CRACKER said it was a great break from being locked down in previous months and forest walks are the best! Thanks very much James and all involved.